Varias, or Orias as they are sometimes called, is just one more in the medley of breads made by Mumbai's East Indian community. Be it the new year, a wedding or a christening, no meal is complete without this dish. The Varia is closer to a Medu Vada than a Sanna (steamed savoury rice balls), because, not only is it deep-fried like a Medu Wada, it is also made with heavier flours, such as whole wheat and urad dal. Therefore, it's best to prepare the batter the previous night, so that is has enough time to rise. The Varia is then shaped into little balls with holes in the centre, much like the Medu Vada, and then deep-fried till golden. But like many East Indian breads, it is sweetened. So to me, it is more of a doughout than a Medu Vada.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
500 gm white lentil (urad dal) flour
500 gm refined wheat flour (maida)
500 gm rice flour
100 gm sugar
2 tsp yeast or toddy
Salt to taste
Oil for deep-frying
Hint: 20 mins; Serves 4; curry
METHOD
In a bowl, knead the maida with the urad dal flour, rice flour, sugar and salt. Now mix in the yeast. Knead the dough so that it is thick but light enough to form doughnuts. Leave it overnight to rise well.
Make rings out of the mixture with holes in the centre, like doughnuts.
In a wok or a deep pan, add enough oil for deep-frying. Once the oil starts bubbling, put the doughnuts in and fry them until brown.
Remove the fried Varias with a perforated ladle and place them on absorbent paper or tissue that will help remove the excess oil.
ALOO PARATHA TADKEWALA
Feeding someone an Aloo Paratha is like smothering him with love and asphyxiating him with an overdose of complex carbs. But find me a man who can resist one and I will give up eating cabbage. From truckers on National Highway 1 to the aristocratic Talwars and Dhariwals, those traversing Punjab's highways and eateries have stopped for an Aloo Paratha at least once in their lives. Unfortunately, most of them roast the paratha in a tandoor and not on a tava. Therein lies the difference between taste and chaste - the purity of any stuffed paratha depends on the tava. Still, if you want to play around with the Aloo Paratha sancity, try adding a tadka like I do.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
The Stuffing
3-4 potatoes, boiled and mashed
1 onion, sliced
2 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp garam masala
2 tsp coriander-cumin powder
1/2 tsp dry mango powder
Fresh coriander, finely chopped
Bread crumbs
Tempering
1 tbsp oil
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp fengreek seeds
1 spring curry leaves
The Parathas
2 cups whole wheat flour (atta)
3 tbsp plain yoghurt
Oil or ghee for making parathas
Water for kneading dough
Hint: 30 mins; Serves 4-5; white butter, green chutney or pickle
METHOD
Heat oil in a pan and add the fenugreek seeds, mustard seeds and curry leaves. Add onion and fry till golden, then add the potatoes, red chilli powder, garam masala, coriander-cumin powder, dry mango powder and finely chopped coriander. Stir vigorously till the spices are cooked and mixed into the potatoes and onion.
In a bowl, knead together the flour and curd, pouring water in as required. There should be enough dough for ten small balls. Roll out each ball into medium-sized parathas. Place the stuffing in the centre of the paratha and seal it by lifting the edges and folding them towards the centre. Use a rolling pin to flatten it out a little. While rolling the paratha, grease the surface either with oil or flour to prevent it from sticking.
Heat a tava and cook the paratha on it till it browns. Then smear some oil or ghee around the edges and flip to cook the other side. Roast the paratha until both sides are golden-brown.
GOAN POTATO CURRY
When you think of Goan food, you are most likely to consider the Vindaloo and Sorpatel and fish curry. But the Hindu cuisine in Goa is a treasure trove of enlightenment. Yes, coconut is ever-present even in these dishes. But as the Goan Hindu can be fairly austere and traditional, there is a huge, lip-smacking variety of vegetarian food suited to scriptural practices. I remember my first-ever meal at the Mandovi Hotel in Panjim. The spread included Tondak (a dish of beans and cashew nuts), Solachi Kadi (coconut and kokum curry), Khatkhate (mixed vegetable stew), Vangyache Kaap (panfried brinjal) and Cashew and Tender Coconut Sukke. Below in another favourite vegetarian dish from Goa - a delectable potato curry.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
1 large coconut, grated (for the milk)
2 additional tbsp grated coconut
2 green chillies
2 red chillies
4 garlic cloves
2 onions, chopped
2 tomatoes, blanched and pureed
1 large boiled potato, peeled
1 capsicum, diced
1 cup mixed vegetables, boiled
1 tbsp fresh coriander, finely chopped
1/2 cup fresh cream
6 cashew nuts
1 one-inch cinnamon stick
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
3 peppercorns
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1/2 tsp mustards seeds
2 tbsp oil or ghee
Salt to taste
2 cups of water
Hint: 45mins; Serves 4; white butter, goan red rice (ukade rice)
METHOD
Blend the large coconut's flesh with two cups of water to form a thick paste. Strain coconut mixture to get thick coconut milk. Keep aside.
Dry roast cinnamon, pepper, cloves, bay leaf and cumin. Grin to a fine powder. Keep aside. In a pan, add a tsp of ghee and mix onions and two tbsp of grated coconut. Fry onions till tender and transcluent and grated coconut till golden-brown. Grind together tomatoes, red chillies, garlic, fried coconut and half the fried onions to a paste. Grind cashew nuts to a fine powder and keep aside.
Heat remaining ghee and fry potato chunks till golden. Drain and keep aside. Fry capsicums, drain and keep aside. Add mustard seeds to the ghee. Let it splutter. Add mixed vegetables. Stir for a minute. Mix in the ground spices. Add remaining fried onions, ground paste, cashew powder, coconut milk and stir till it comes to a boil. Simmer till thickened. Stir in fresh cream. Garnish with coriander and whole cashews.
PAKORA DAHI KADHI
I cannot fathom how a state with a never-ending coastline and an almost endless supply of seafood can be so staunchly vegetarian. Geography has nearly always dictated food habits in most parts of the country, but Gujarat remains happily deviant thanks to the strong influence of Jainism, as well as Vaishnavism.
But in most other ways, the state quails to nature and its very dry climate. The aridness of Gujarat encourages the cultivation of wheat, maize and bajra (pearl millet), instead of rice. Hence rotlis, chapatis and bhakris form the daily fare and are accompanied by side dishes that suit this feast of unleavened bread. Dahi Kadhi, for instance, is a vegetarain's delight and as Gujarati as it can get.
Gujarati food is also influenced by its neighbour, Maharashtra, and dishes from the southern part of the state can be quite spicy, as opposed to the sweet flavour traditionally associated with this cuisine. But in Gujarat, a meal is never complete without kadhi, dal, roti and shaak. Here is a taste of the spicy side of Gujarat.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
The Pakoras
1 green chilli or jalapeno, chopped
1/4 tsp red chilli powder or cayenne pepper
2 tsp onions, chopped
1/2 tsp ginger, grated
1 cup gram flour (besan)
1 pinch cumin seeds (jeera)
1/2 tsp fennel seeds (optional)
1 pinch turmeric powder
1/4 tsp garam masala
2-3 cups oil for frying
Water for mixing the batter
The Curd Base
2 cups thick curd
4 cups water
1 pinch turmeric powder
1 pinch salt
1 pinch red chilli powder
1 tbsp gram flour (besan)
The kadhi
1 large tomato, chopped
1 large onion, sliced long
2-3 garlic cloves, minced
4-5 dried red chillies
2 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds (jeera)
1 tsp coriander seeds
1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
7-8 curry leaves
2-3 cloves
1 tsp ginger paste
1-2 tsp tamarind paste (mixed with 1 tbsp water)
1 tsp turmeric powder
3 tsp garam masala
1 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp fenugreek leaves/powder
2 tbsp mustard oil or ghee
Salt to taste
2 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped
Hint: 60mins; Serves 4; steamed rice and pickle
METHOD
In a bowl, mix together the gram flour, chopped onion, green chilli, grated ginger, garam masala, red chilli powder, turmeric powder, cumin seeds, fennel seeds and salt.
Pour just enough water to make a thick batter. In a deep-frying pan, heat the oil. Drop the batter in the form of small balls into the hot oil. Fry the pakoras until they turn crisp and golden. Remove from the pan and place on paper towels to drain the excess oil.
Keep the pakoras warm in an oven on low heat.
In a blender, mix the curd, water, turmeric powder, salt, red chilli powder and a gram flour. Blend the mixture until it has the consistency and appearance of buttermilk. Keep aside for 30 minutes.
Pour mustard oil in a work and heat it until it begins to smoke. Add in the mustard, fengreek, cumin and coriander seeds, as well as the cloves. Let them all crackle and pop. Then add curry leaves and dry red chillies to the mixture.
Add the silvers of onion and fry until they turn golden-brown. Then mix in the garlic and ginger. Saute for three minutes, making sure the mixture does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Add in the chopped tomato and fry other another 3-4 minutes.
In a fresh pan, heal oil. Pour in the tamarind paste and cook it for 4-5 minutes. Add turmeric powder, garam masala, red chilli powder and salt. Fry until the oil starts floating on the top, giving it a dark reddish-brown colour.
Now add the fried onion and tomato mixture to this. Gently stir the curry on medium heat. Bring it to a boil, let it simmer and cook for 3-5 minutes. Now cook the curry on low flame for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir for another five minutes and check if it's thick enough and looks dark yellow. Stir for five more minutes and then sprinkle it with dry fenugreek leaves.
Let it boil for another two minutes. Now add the pakoras to the kadhi. Boil and stir gently for about three minutes.
Garnish with coriander leaves. Serve hot.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
500 gm white lentil (urad dal) flour
500 gm refined wheat flour (maida)
500 gm rice flour
100 gm sugar
2 tsp yeast or toddy
Salt to taste
Oil for deep-frying
Hint: 20 mins; Serves 4; curry
METHOD
In a bowl, knead the maida with the urad dal flour, rice flour, sugar and salt. Now mix in the yeast. Knead the dough so that it is thick but light enough to form doughnuts. Leave it overnight to rise well.
Make rings out of the mixture with holes in the centre, like doughnuts.
In a wok or a deep pan, add enough oil for deep-frying. Once the oil starts bubbling, put the doughnuts in and fry them until brown.
Remove the fried Varias with a perforated ladle and place them on absorbent paper or tissue that will help remove the excess oil.
ALOO PARATHA TADKEWALA
Feeding someone an Aloo Paratha is like smothering him with love and asphyxiating him with an overdose of complex carbs. But find me a man who can resist one and I will give up eating cabbage. From truckers on National Highway 1 to the aristocratic Talwars and Dhariwals, those traversing Punjab's highways and eateries have stopped for an Aloo Paratha at least once in their lives. Unfortunately, most of them roast the paratha in a tandoor and not on a tava. Therein lies the difference between taste and chaste - the purity of any stuffed paratha depends on the tava. Still, if you want to play around with the Aloo Paratha sancity, try adding a tadka like I do.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
The Stuffing
3-4 potatoes, boiled and mashed
1 onion, sliced
2 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp garam masala
2 tsp coriander-cumin powder
1/2 tsp dry mango powder
Fresh coriander, finely chopped
Bread crumbs
Tempering
1 tbsp oil
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp fengreek seeds
1 spring curry leaves
The Parathas
2 cups whole wheat flour (atta)
3 tbsp plain yoghurt
Oil or ghee for making parathas
Water for kneading dough
Hint: 30 mins; Serves 4-5; white butter, green chutney or pickle
METHOD
Heat oil in a pan and add the fenugreek seeds, mustard seeds and curry leaves. Add onion and fry till golden, then add the potatoes, red chilli powder, garam masala, coriander-cumin powder, dry mango powder and finely chopped coriander. Stir vigorously till the spices are cooked and mixed into the potatoes and onion.
In a bowl, knead together the flour and curd, pouring water in as required. There should be enough dough for ten small balls. Roll out each ball into medium-sized parathas. Place the stuffing in the centre of the paratha and seal it by lifting the edges and folding them towards the centre. Use a rolling pin to flatten it out a little. While rolling the paratha, grease the surface either with oil or flour to prevent it from sticking.
Heat a tava and cook the paratha on it till it browns. Then smear some oil or ghee around the edges and flip to cook the other side. Roast the paratha until both sides are golden-brown.
GOAN POTATO CURRY
When you think of Goan food, you are most likely to consider the Vindaloo and Sorpatel and fish curry. But the Hindu cuisine in Goa is a treasure trove of enlightenment. Yes, coconut is ever-present even in these dishes. But as the Goan Hindu can be fairly austere and traditional, there is a huge, lip-smacking variety of vegetarian food suited to scriptural practices. I remember my first-ever meal at the Mandovi Hotel in Panjim. The spread included Tondak (a dish of beans and cashew nuts), Solachi Kadi (coconut and kokum curry), Khatkhate (mixed vegetable stew), Vangyache Kaap (panfried brinjal) and Cashew and Tender Coconut Sukke. Below in another favourite vegetarian dish from Goa - a delectable potato curry.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
1 large coconut, grated (for the milk)
2 additional tbsp grated coconut
2 green chillies
2 red chillies
4 garlic cloves
2 onions, chopped
2 tomatoes, blanched and pureed
1 large boiled potato, peeled
1 capsicum, diced
1 cup mixed vegetables, boiled
1 tbsp fresh coriander, finely chopped
1/2 cup fresh cream
6 cashew nuts
1 one-inch cinnamon stick
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
3 peppercorns
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1/2 tsp mustards seeds
2 tbsp oil or ghee
Salt to taste
2 cups of water
Hint: 45mins; Serves 4; white butter, goan red rice (ukade rice)
METHOD
Blend the large coconut's flesh with two cups of water to form a thick paste. Strain coconut mixture to get thick coconut milk. Keep aside.
Dry roast cinnamon, pepper, cloves, bay leaf and cumin. Grin to a fine powder. Keep aside. In a pan, add a tsp of ghee and mix onions and two tbsp of grated coconut. Fry onions till tender and transcluent and grated coconut till golden-brown. Grind together tomatoes, red chillies, garlic, fried coconut and half the fried onions to a paste. Grind cashew nuts to a fine powder and keep aside.
Heat remaining ghee and fry potato chunks till golden. Drain and keep aside. Fry capsicums, drain and keep aside. Add mustard seeds to the ghee. Let it splutter. Add mixed vegetables. Stir for a minute. Mix in the ground spices. Add remaining fried onions, ground paste, cashew powder, coconut milk and stir till it comes to a boil. Simmer till thickened. Stir in fresh cream. Garnish with coriander and whole cashews.
PAKORA DAHI KADHI
I cannot fathom how a state with a never-ending coastline and an almost endless supply of seafood can be so staunchly vegetarian. Geography has nearly always dictated food habits in most parts of the country, but Gujarat remains happily deviant thanks to the strong influence of Jainism, as well as Vaishnavism.
But in most other ways, the state quails to nature and its very dry climate. The aridness of Gujarat encourages the cultivation of wheat, maize and bajra (pearl millet), instead of rice. Hence rotlis, chapatis and bhakris form the daily fare and are accompanied by side dishes that suit this feast of unleavened bread. Dahi Kadhi, for instance, is a vegetarain's delight and as Gujarati as it can get.
Gujarati food is also influenced by its neighbour, Maharashtra, and dishes from the southern part of the state can be quite spicy, as opposed to the sweet flavour traditionally associated with this cuisine. But in Gujarat, a meal is never complete without kadhi, dal, roti and shaak. Here is a taste of the spicy side of Gujarat.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
The Pakoras
1 green chilli or jalapeno, chopped
1/4 tsp red chilli powder or cayenne pepper
2 tsp onions, chopped
1/2 tsp ginger, grated
1 cup gram flour (besan)
1 pinch cumin seeds (jeera)
1/2 tsp fennel seeds (optional)
1 pinch turmeric powder
1/4 tsp garam masala
2-3 cups oil for frying
Water for mixing the batter
The Curd Base
2 cups thick curd
4 cups water
1 pinch turmeric powder
1 pinch salt
1 pinch red chilli powder
1 tbsp gram flour (besan)
The kadhi
1 large tomato, chopped
1 large onion, sliced long
2-3 garlic cloves, minced
4-5 dried red chillies
2 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds (jeera)
1 tsp coriander seeds
1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
7-8 curry leaves
2-3 cloves
1 tsp ginger paste
1-2 tsp tamarind paste (mixed with 1 tbsp water)
1 tsp turmeric powder
3 tsp garam masala
1 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp fenugreek leaves/powder
2 tbsp mustard oil or ghee
Salt to taste
2 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped
Hint: 60mins; Serves 4; steamed rice and pickle
METHOD
In a bowl, mix together the gram flour, chopped onion, green chilli, grated ginger, garam masala, red chilli powder, turmeric powder, cumin seeds, fennel seeds and salt.
Pour just enough water to make a thick batter. In a deep-frying pan, heat the oil. Drop the batter in the form of small balls into the hot oil. Fry the pakoras until they turn crisp and golden. Remove from the pan and place on paper towels to drain the excess oil.
Keep the pakoras warm in an oven on low heat.
In a blender, mix the curd, water, turmeric powder, salt, red chilli powder and a gram flour. Blend the mixture until it has the consistency and appearance of buttermilk. Keep aside for 30 minutes.
Pour mustard oil in a work and heat it until it begins to smoke. Add in the mustard, fengreek, cumin and coriander seeds, as well as the cloves. Let them all crackle and pop. Then add curry leaves and dry red chillies to the mixture.
Add the silvers of onion and fry until they turn golden-brown. Then mix in the garlic and ginger. Saute for three minutes, making sure the mixture does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Add in the chopped tomato and fry other another 3-4 minutes.
In a fresh pan, heal oil. Pour in the tamarind paste and cook it for 4-5 minutes. Add turmeric powder, garam masala, red chilli powder and salt. Fry until the oil starts floating on the top, giving it a dark reddish-brown colour.
Now add the fried onion and tomato mixture to this. Gently stir the curry on medium heat. Bring it to a boil, let it simmer and cook for 3-5 minutes. Now cook the curry on low flame for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir for another five minutes and check if it's thick enough and looks dark yellow. Stir for five more minutes and then sprinkle it with dry fenugreek leaves.
Let it boil for another two minutes. Now add the pakoras to the kadhi. Boil and stir gently for about three minutes.
Garnish with coriander leaves. Serve hot.
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