The East Indian community of Mumbai is one of the city's oldest settlers. In the bylanes of Girgaum, in the villlages of Bandra, in the now urbanized areas of Amboli, Andheri, Vakola and Marol, you can still find the community holding onto their old-tiled-roof homes and backyards. Evangelized by the Portuguese and converted to Christianity in the Pre-British era, the East Indians are Marathi-speaking folk, who still preserve thier pre-Christian Marathi culture and traditions, including their food. While a few of their dishes are similar to their fellow Christians Goans, most of their food is distinctive. The Mutton Khuddi, for example, is a simple enough dish made with basic spices, coconut, green chillies and the bottle masala.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
1 kg mutton
2 potatoes
4 medium onions, chopped
4 green chillies
1/4 coconut, in pieces or scraped
1/2 cup tamarind juice
2 tbsp ghee
1 tbsp bottle masala
Garam masala to taste
Salt to taste
Water
Hint: 60mins; Serves 4; tomato ketchup
METHOD
MINCE POTATO CHOPS WITH MINT
For want of a better definition, let's call this a croquette or a stuffed. Aloo Tikki. It's a small panty or ball of mashed potatoes, stuffed with minced meat, usually breaded, egg-washed and deep-fried. The chop is quite common among most Indian communities. You can stuff the potato with green peas, corn, mixed vegetables, paneer, chopped boiled egg, cheese, ham chicken-in-white-sauce or even leftover food. Bengal makes a great macher chop (fish chop), the Goans do it with spicy vinegary mince, and my mom makes it with creamy mashed potatoes stuffed with mushy peas and green chutney.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
The chops
250 gm lamb, minced & 500 gm potatoes
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 tomatoes or 2 cups tomato puree
1 cup mint leaves, finely chopped
2 tbsp garlic cloves, finely minced
1 tbsp grated ginger
1 tbsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin powder, 1/2 tsp red chilli powder & 1 tsp turmeric powder
1/2 tsp garam masala
A pinch of nutmeg and green cardamom powder
1 tbsp sugarcane vinegar
4 tbsp vegetable oil & Salt to taste
A few coriander leaves, finely chopped
Dipping, Rolling & Frying
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup bread crumbs
21/2 tbsp cornflour & Oil
Hint: 60 mins; Serves 4; tomato ketchup
METHOD
Heat four tbsp of oil in a pan. On medium flame, saute onions till soft and transcluent. Add ginger and garlic. Saute till the rawness disappears. Add all the dry spice powders, sugar and tomatoes.
INGREDIENTS
1 kg mutton
2 potatoes
4 medium onions, chopped
4 green chillies
1/4 coconut, in pieces or scraped
1/2 cup tamarind juice
2 tbsp ghee
1 tbsp bottle masala
Garam masala to taste
Salt to taste
Water
Hint: 60mins; Serves 4; tomato ketchup
METHOD
In a pan, roast chopped onions, green chillies and scraped coconut. Cool and grind them.
In a pan, heat two tbsp of ghee and fry the ground masala until fragant. Then add one tbsp of bottle masala. Let it cook properly till the oil separates from the masala.
Add cubed meat pieces. Fry the meat and mix well. Pour in enough water for the meat to cook. Add salt to taste and cook till the meat is tender. Add chopped potatoes.
When cooked, add freshly squeezed sour lime or tamarind juice. For added flavour add garam masala.
Serve warm.
MINCE POTATO CHOPS WITH MINT
For want of a better definition, let's call this a croquette or a stuffed. Aloo Tikki. It's a small panty or ball of mashed potatoes, stuffed with minced meat, usually breaded, egg-washed and deep-fried. The chop is quite common among most Indian communities. You can stuff the potato with green peas, corn, mixed vegetables, paneer, chopped boiled egg, cheese, ham chicken-in-white-sauce or even leftover food. Bengal makes a great macher chop (fish chop), the Goans do it with spicy vinegary mince, and my mom makes it with creamy mashed potatoes stuffed with mushy peas and green chutney.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
The chops
250 gm lamb, minced & 500 gm potatoes
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 tomatoes or 2 cups tomato puree
1 cup mint leaves, finely chopped
2 tbsp garlic cloves, finely minced
1 tbsp grated ginger
1 tbsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin powder, 1/2 tsp red chilli powder & 1 tsp turmeric powder
1/2 tsp garam masala
A pinch of nutmeg and green cardamom powder
1 tbsp sugarcane vinegar
4 tbsp vegetable oil & Salt to taste
A few coriander leaves, finely chopped
Dipping, Rolling & Frying
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup bread crumbs
21/2 tbsp cornflour & Oil
Hint: 60 mins; Serves 4; tomato ketchup
METHOD
Heat four tbsp of oil in a pan. On medium flame, saute onions till soft and transcluent. Add ginger and garlic. Saute till the rawness disappears. Add all the dry spice powders, sugar and tomatoes.
Saute till tomatoes are soft. Add lamb mince and stir-well. Cover and slow-cook for 25 minutes.Add chopped mint leaves, nutmeg and cardamom powder. Stir occasionally and sprinkle water or oil, if mince is turning dry. Pour some vinegar and add salt to taste. Cook lamb until dry.
Sprinkle chopped coriander and mix well.
Keep aside to cool.
Wash potatoes and boil them in their jackets in a pressure cooker till tender.Drain, peel and mash the potatoes. Form a ball out of a handful and make a hollow in it to fill with the mince stuffing. Then form a smooth, well-shaped round cutlet.
Evenly dip and coat each potato chop in the beaten egg and roll in the prepared bread crumbs. Refrigerate for about 20 minutes. Then deep-fry till lightly golden.
EDDIE'S MUTTON STEW
The history of stews can be traced back to a time when there were no cooking vessels. Every culture has its own version of stew, the most famous of which is the Irish Stew. There's also Cassoulet or Ratatouille from France, Caldeirada from Portugal, Gheimeh from Iran, or closer home, the rich, fragrant Kerala Ishtew.
My recipe below is the Anglo-Indian version. Anglo-Indian cooking is now a near-forgotten tradition that emerged and evolved during the British Raj in India. The hangover from the Raj stayed on for many years after Independence, and so did Eddie, the butler-cum-cook at my great-uncle's home. This is his recipe from my memory, spiced with fragrant garam masala.
Evenly dip and coat each potato chop in the beaten egg and roll in the prepared bread crumbs. Refrigerate for about 20 minutes. Then deep-fry till lightly golden.
EDDIE'S MUTTON STEW
The history of stews can be traced back to a time when there were no cooking vessels. Every culture has its own version of stew, the most famous of which is the Irish Stew. There's also Cassoulet or Ratatouille from France, Caldeirada from Portugal, Gheimeh from Iran, or closer home, the rich, fragrant Kerala Ishtew.
My recipe below is the Anglo-Indian version. Anglo-Indian cooking is now a near-forgotten tradition that emerged and evolved during the British Raj in India. The hangover from the Raj stayed on for many years after Independence, and so did Eddie, the butler-cum-cook at my great-uncle's home. This is his recipe from my memory, spiced with fragrant garam masala.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
1/2 kg mutton
2 potatoes, cut lengthwise
2 onions, finely chopped
1 piece ginger, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 tsp flour
10-12 whole peppercorns
2 cloves
2 caradamoms
1 tsp ground pepper
2 cinnamon sticks
2 tbsp ghee
Salt to taste
Hint: 60 mins; Serves 6; hotbread or steamed rice
METHOD
In a pan, fry cut pieces of meat in a warm tbsp of ghee, till meat is seared and changes colour. Remove from pan.
INGREDIENTS
1/2 kg mutton
2 potatoes, cut lengthwise
2 onions, finely chopped
1 piece ginger, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 tsp flour
10-12 whole peppercorns
2 cloves
2 caradamoms
1 tsp ground pepper
2 cinnamon sticks
2 tbsp ghee
Salt to taste
Hint: 60 mins; Serves 6; hotbread or steamed rice
METHOD
In a pan, fry cut pieces of meat in a warm tbsp of ghee, till meat is seared and changes colour. Remove from pan.
In the same pan, warm a tbsp of ghee.
Fry the ginger and garlic and add cloves, cinnamon and cardamoms. Next, add the meat and stir-fry for a minute. Stir in a tbsp of flour. Add the freshly ground pepper, too, and pour in the stock. Add the cut potatoes and salt to taste. Slow-cook till done.
Serve warm
(As an option, you can add sliced carrots, French beans and halved tomatoes to the stew).
DESSERT
Why on earth is dessert, or the sweet-dish as we also know it, reserved for the end of the meal? If I had my way, I'd start with dessert, end with dessert and have some even midway through my meal. Dessert as a finale is a western concept. In India, sweets are often served along with the food. Our love for dessert is perpetual. We have explored, experimental and created boundless kinds of desserts. They are also an integral parts of religion, rituals and our daily lives.
SEV BADAM BURFI
If you are Sindhi, you know what Sev Badam Burfi is. It's a staple for any celebration, be it a wedding, birthday or a spurt in your finances. It's a unique halwa (pudding) that is both sweet and savoury. It's simple to make and just divine.
The Sindhi community fled from Pakistan during the Partition, and now live in different parts of the country and the world. A lot of Sindhi food still acknowledges its Muslim influences, especially where sweets are concerned. Praghri or khaja-like puff pastry and sev, or seviyan (vermicelli), are quite similar in terms of how they are made in Pakistan. The original recipe for Sev Badam Burfi or Singhar Burfi calls for unsalted sev, but I like to make it with salted sev.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
250 gm sev, fried and unsalted from the farsan walla
250 gm khoya (condensated milk or mawal)
50 gm almonds, silvered
250 gm sugar
250 ml water
Saffron strands, soaked in milk
1/2 tsp cardamom powder
You will also need. A greased thali (plate).
Hint: 30 mins; Serves 4-5; pista, rose petals and gulkand
METHOD
In a wok, pour the water and mix in the sugar. Boil till the sugar has dissolved. Add khoya and mix till it is melted. Stir gently till all the ingredients are well blended. Keep stirring and add saffron and cardamom powder.
Fry the ginger and garlic and add cloves, cinnamon and cardamoms. Next, add the meat and stir-fry for a minute. Stir in a tbsp of flour. Add the freshly ground pepper, too, and pour in the stock. Add the cut potatoes and salt to taste. Slow-cook till done.
Serve warm
(As an option, you can add sliced carrots, French beans and halved tomatoes to the stew).
DESSERT
Why on earth is dessert, or the sweet-dish as we also know it, reserved for the end of the meal? If I had my way, I'd start with dessert, end with dessert and have some even midway through my meal. Dessert as a finale is a western concept. In India, sweets are often served along with the food. Our love for dessert is perpetual. We have explored, experimental and created boundless kinds of desserts. They are also an integral parts of religion, rituals and our daily lives.
SEV BADAM BURFI
If you are Sindhi, you know what Sev Badam Burfi is. It's a staple for any celebration, be it a wedding, birthday or a spurt in your finances. It's a unique halwa (pudding) that is both sweet and savoury. It's simple to make and just divine.
The Sindhi community fled from Pakistan during the Partition, and now live in different parts of the country and the world. A lot of Sindhi food still acknowledges its Muslim influences, especially where sweets are concerned. Praghri or khaja-like puff pastry and sev, or seviyan (vermicelli), are quite similar in terms of how they are made in Pakistan. The original recipe for Sev Badam Burfi or Singhar Burfi calls for unsalted sev, but I like to make it with salted sev.
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
250 gm sev, fried and unsalted from the farsan walla
250 gm khoya (condensated milk or mawal)
50 gm almonds, silvered
250 gm sugar
250 ml water
Saffron strands, soaked in milk
1/2 tsp cardamom powder
You will also need. A greased thali (plate).
Hint: 30 mins; Serves 4-5; pista, rose petals and gulkand
METHOD
In a wok, pour the water and mix in the sugar. Boil till the sugar has dissolved. Add khoya and mix till it is melted. Stir gently till all the ingredients are well blended. Keep stirring and add saffron and cardamom powder.
Now add the sev. Stir gently and add half the almonds. Mix well till it starts to thicken. Once it thickens, pour this mixture in a greased thali. Garnish with the remaining almonds. Set aside and cool for 30 minutes.
Once the mixture has cooled, cut into squares of desired size and serve.
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