FISH

With a coast that flanks nearly half of our country, eating fish is a way of life. The joy of doing so is only enhanced by actually going to a fish market - a boisterous and jubilant place - and buying the fish, generally sold by the wife or relatives of the man who has himself ventured deep into the ocean to net his catch. Fish is cooked and flavoured differently as you go from the western coast to the south, or from the southeren coast up to the east, which means that you can travel up and down the coast without eating the same curry twice! It's no surprise then that the rest of India has taken to eating fish with fervour and gusto.

POMFRET MOILEE

You have probably heard the name of this di1sh before in reference to the cuisine of  Kerala. Indeed, Fish Moilee is Kerala's most famous fish stew. However, the Mumbai East Indian community does the Pomfret Moilee in their own native way, often with duck, chicken or beef. Like most East Indian recipes, the Pomfret Moilee is simple and relies on the secret ingredient, bottle masala. While the Moilee is simple and relies on the secret ingredient, bottle masala. While the Moilee can be made with other fish like mori or shark, I prefer it with pomfret. This silvery-white rhomboid is, after all, any Mumbai pescetarian's pride. And this simple, yet flavourful dish is evidence of why the pomfret holds pride of place in our cuisine.
  
RECIPE

INGREDIENTS

1 medium-sized pomfret
3 onions, thinly sliced into rings
3 green chillies, silvered
1 tbsp bottle masala
1/2-inch ginger, cut lengthwise
8 garlic cloves, cut lengthwise
2 tbsp ghee
1/2 cup water
Vinegar to taste
Salt to taste
Oil for frying

Hint: 30 mins; Serves 4; bread or steamed rice

METHOD

Slice the pomfret into pieces. Wash the pomfret pieces and marinate with two tsp salt. Pour oil in a pan. Once the oil is heated, fry the pomfret pieces until they are crisp on both sides.

In a pan, heat ghee or clarified butter. 

Add onions, chillies, ginger and garlic.

Fry them till they are golden-brown, and then add the bottle masala. Pour in half a cup of water, vinegar and salt to taste. Let it simmer for a few minutes, so that the masala cooks properly and the oil separates. Once it is cooked, add the oil separates. Once it is cooked, add the fried fish to it. Mix it well so that all the spices and flavours blend in with the fish. Cook for a few minutes.

Serve warm.

PRAWNS ATWAN

Prawns Atwan is an East Indian Catholic dish. East Indian Catholics are the original inhabitants of what was the island of Bombay, Thana and Bassein. Then why should a community living on India's west coast be called East Indian? I have no clue, but what I do know is that this marathi-speaking community has a distinctive cuisine - one that, like their history and culture, was once rich, but is now at the risk of being lost forever. Most of their food is slow-cooked, non-vegetarian and uses little coconut. Also, it is flavoured with that one East Indian spice called the bottle masala. It adds magic to many a dish, like this one.

RECIPE

INGREDIENTS

250 gm prawns, shelled
1 tbsp bottle masala
2 onions, chopped
3 green chillies, chopped
1-inch ginger, chopped
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup tamarind juice
2 tbsp oil
Salt to taste
1/4 cup water
Fresh coriander leaves, chopped

Hint: 20 mins; Serves 4; steamed rice or fugias 

METHOD

Heat oil in a pan. Add ginger, garlic and green chillies and fry them for a few minutes. Add chopped onions and then fry them until they are cooked. Now add the bottle masala and tamarind pulp. Mix and cook all the ingredients.

Once the masala is cooked, add the shelled prawns. Stir the prawns and pour in 1/4 cup of water. Add salt to taste. Let it simmer till the prawns are cooked and the gravy has thickened. Once the gravy is thick enough, the prawns are ready to serve. Garnish with freshly chopped coriander.

Serve hot.

CHINCHONI

Something, the description of the dish is in the name itself. Chinchoni comes from chinch, which means tamarind in Marathi. Do I need to tell you then that this is a nice, sour, tangy fish preparation? The influence date back to when the Portuguese would pickle their fish and meat for their never-ending sea voyages. Souring agents like vinegar, kokum and tamarind were often used as preservatives. These ingredients also create an idiosyncratic and luscious piquancy when mixed with masalas. Close your eyes and imagine your palate filled with fiery red masalas in oil. Now picture balancing it with some milky coconut and a bit of sourness. You can either remain with your eyes closed or actually try making the Chinchoni.

RECIPE

INGREDIENTS

1 pomfret or shark, cut into pieces
250 gm coconut
6 red chillies
1 tsp cumin seeds (jeera)
1-inch turmeric
8 garlic cloves
Tamarind pulp
Oil for frying
Salt to taste
Water

Hint: 15 mins; Serves 3; hot pav

METHOD

In a mixer, add red chillies, cumin seeds, coconut, turmeric and garlic, and grind coarsely.

In a pan, heat one tbsp of oil. Add the ground masala and fry till it is cooked. In the same pan, pour some water and tamarind pulp. Stir well.

Add the fish pieces and cook them for a few minutes. Add salt to taste. Let it summer and cook the fish for 15 minutes. Stir continuously and cook some more until the gravy thickens.

Serve warm.

FISH KUJIT

East Indian cusisine is a unique blend of Koli, Maharashtrian and Portugese cuisine. The kolis were the original inhabitants of the city, the Maharshtrians were the cultural ambassadors of Mumbai and the Portuguese were the rulers of the islands. For the East Indian Marathi-speaking Christians, the mix was heady. Adapting the best of the best, they created a cuisine that was aromatic and unique.

Fish Kujit is a curry like the many hundred curries that inhabit the coastal areas of the Konkan. It is light, ambrosial and uses what I like to predominantly call green and yellow masalas. The pungency comes from peppercorn and green chillies. No red, fiery, hot chillies here.

 
RECIPE

INGREDIENTS

1 pomfret or surmai
1 large onion, thinly sliced
6 green chillies, tinly sliced
1-inch ginger, thinly sliced
2 tomatoes, thinly sliced
1/2 cup coconut milk
6 garlic cloves
1 tsp cumin seeds (jeera)
11/2 tsp coriander powder
1/2 tsp tumeric powder
6 peppercorns
2 tbsp vinegar
2 tbsp oil
Salt to taste

Hint: 30 mins; Serves 4;  steamed rice

METHOD

In a mixer, add garlic cloves, cumin seeds, coriander powder, turmeric powder and peppercorns. Grind these spices. In a wok, heat oil and fry the ginger, chillies and onions until they turn golden-brown.

Add the tomatoes and cook till they leave water. Now, add the ground masala. Fry for a few minutes and then add water.

Cook the masala for a while until the aromas are well-blended. Now pour in the coconut milk and mix well. Add salt to taste. Finally, add the fish. Cook for a few minutes and bring it to a boil. When the curry comes to a boil, add two tbsp of vinegar and stir well.

Serve warm.